Round Shield, DIY Kit — A Viking Shield with Centuries of History, Made by Yourself

The kit contains everything you need to create a shield that will replicate historical examples of round shields down to the millimeter — the kind used by Slavs, Scandinavians, and Germanic peoples.

We do not use bent plywood or modern multi-layer boards — only solid spruce wood!

In the product gallery, you can see an example of a finished round shield.

We are also pleased to offer other shield-making kits:

Contents of the “Round Shield” Kit

Round shield blank made of solid boards glued together

Dimensions:

Diameter: 75 cm
Thickness: 1.5 cm

(Since shield blanks are handmade, dimensions may vary slightly)

The solid wood is glued in such a way that the strength of the seams exceeds that of the wood fibers — in other words, if the shield cracks in battle, the crack will run along the wood itself, never along a glued seam.

Boss (shield dome)

Made of extremely strong steel, 2 mm thick, suitable for forging

Handle
Rawhide strip

2.5 m of wild boar / bull hide (split) — precisely sized for the shield

Nails

For attaching the rawhide and handle:

- Lock nails S25 – 25 mm: 30 pcs.
- Clout nails B40 – 40 mm: 4 pcs.
- Clout nails B50 – 50 mm: 6 pcs.

Assembly Instructions for Crafting a Round Shield

Soak the rawhide strip in clean water for 6 to 24 hours until it becomes easy to bend and work with.
While the rawhide is soaking, you can think about whether you want to paint the shield, modify the appearance of the wood, and so on. If you want something minimalistic, you can, for example, flame the wood or treat it with linseed oil.

Important!

Paint will not adhere to an oiled surface!
When painting, keep in mind that the rawhide strip will cover the edge of the shield.
When designing the shield, don’t forget the boss.

3. Clean the rawhide strip of any fluff. Then attach the strips using clamps as shown in the picture.

Important!

Since the rawhide is wet, water will drip from the shield — have a towel ready and place it directly under the blank.
Make sure the rawhide fits tightly and does not form creases.
Don’t skimp on clamps! The more clamps, the better the result.
You will notice that the edges of the rawhide overlap. Do NOT cut this overlap until the rawhide has dried — let the shield dry in a warm room for 48 hours. The rawhide shrinks as it dries!

4. Once you are sure the rawhide is dry, no longer shrinking, and feels much harder, you can trim it. You can also leave the overlap if it lies on a critical strike edge — this will make the shield even stronger.

5. Remove the clamps and drill holes for the nails at equal distances from each other.

Tip:

You can either remove all clamps at once or one by one. We recommend starting at both ends of the strip to fix it in position.

6. Begin driving in the nails.

Tip:

Do not drive nails too close to the edge of the strip.
Make sure the nails also pass through the strip on the back side.
Bend the tip of each nail over on the back side (clinch it).

7. Attach the handle.

Drill 4 holes approximately 5 cm from each end of the handle. You can either bend the nails over on the back side or drive them in so that the tip does not protrude — in that case, you will need to shorten them. It is also recommended to apply wood glue between the shield and the handle’s contact surface.

8. Almost done! Now the boss. Place the shield in front of you with the front facing you. Place the boss over the central hole and align it. Drill holes in the shield.

Important!

Make sure the pre-drilled holes are placed above and below the handle on the back side. It is recommended to drive the nails all the way through and clinch the ends on the back side.

Congratulations! Your Viking round shield is ready!

Historical Background

The round shield is a true long-liver on the battlefield. It was loved in the early Middle Ages and later, but it is most strongly associated with the warriors of Northern and Eastern Europe: Slavs, Germanic peoples, and Scandinavians. Yes, those same Scandinavians among whom were the Vikings — though Vikings were not a people but rather a “profession”: that’s what they called those who went to sea in search of booty and glory. But they all shared one shield — round, light, and fierce in appearance.

Truth be told, the round shield was never considered a family heirloom. On the contrary — it was expendable. Generally, shields were strong enough to survive a couple of fierce battles, and cheap and simple enough that a carpenter could knock together a dozen of them in a few days before a new campaign.

The shield’s finish depended on the owner’s budget and conscience: some proudly covered it with rawhide, then painted it with bright patterns — such a shield could both absorb a blow and frighten the enemy; others simply painted the boards with ochre or soot; and the most practical (or the poorest) went into battle with a bare, untreated piece of wood — though that didn’t last long: it got wet, cracked, and fell apart after the first serious fight.

It was precisely this combination of simplicity, reliability, and affordable cost that made the round shield the true workhorse of medieval Europe.